UP YOUR DOG SHOW GAME
Helping Breeders &
Exhibitors Succeed in the Show Ring
DEVELOP AN EYE
THE COCKER SPANIEL
SEEING MOVEMENT
BEYOND THE COAT
The un-retouched photo above is CH Kamp’s Kaptian Kool. He was a multiple all-breed Best in Show and American Spaniel Club Best in Show winner in the late 1970’s - early 1980’s. He is one of the best moving Cockers of our modern era. He is an excellent example of breed type and movement.
The type of movement we are talking about is more than “flash and dash,” or how fast your dog moves around the show ring. Outstanding movement is based on proper structure. How your dog is built determines his stride. Proper structure allows a dog to go the distance with less effort and gives him improved shock absorbency in athletic activities such as Agility and hunting. Good structure enables him to remain sound throughout his lifetime. While the Breed Standard gives lists of traits and attributes of the breed, we will highlight some of these with visual examples.
Height - Is measured from the highest point of the shoulder (A) to the ground (B).
Length -Is described as being from the point of the shoulder (C) to the point of the hip (D).
Correct proportion is described as: the dog’s length is slightly longer than its height which gives the Cocker balance and symmetry.
Often you will hear breeders say that a particular dog is “up on leg.” This is not referring to how tall a dog is, but a reference to the correct proportions of height and length. Likewise a dog who is called “long and low” is lower in height at the shoulder in proportion to its length .
Correct Structure
Common Structural Faults
Correct Structure
Neck - Long arched neck attaches smoothly into shoulder.
Shoulder Layback - Smooth, well laid back at
nearly a 45 degree angle. Tops of shoulder blades close together, not bulky.
Top-line - Hard, slightly sloped.
Rib Spring- Ribs should well sprung, long with a short loin.
Hip - 30 degrees (flatter than many breeds),
is an important part of a driving rear. Does not protrude.
Tail Set - Right off the back at about 45 degrees.
Rear Angulation - Well angulated (90 degrees), strong, wide. Hocks well let down.
Shoulder Blade & Upper Arm - Set at about
90+ degree angle .
Upper Arm (humorous) - Long, well set under upper arm is crucial to the front assembly and determines
length of stride.
Fore-Chest - Breast bone protrudes beyond
the left & right points of the shoulder. A
pronounced forechest should be in evidence.
Should have good depth of chest and well sprung
ribs with a short loin.
Movement - This dog will have a longer stride, covering more distance in fewer steps. From
the side, this dog’s front legs will extend (reach)
to the end or slightly more than his muzzle.
They will not appear to strike high, then slap
the ground. His rear foot will stay on the ground
(for the full stride) and propel (drive) the dog
forward with fewer strides to arrive at his
destination than the dog on the left. His gait is smooth, fluid, and never bouncy.
Common Structural Faults
A. Neck - Short, lacking arch.
B. Shoulder Layback - Steep, should not be bulky/wide.
C. Top-line - Soft, has a dip at the center, may flex when moving, high in the rear.
Rib Spring - Ribs should not be short or slab-sided. Loin should not long.
D. Hip - The bone is tipped at a greater angle giving the dog a low tail set. This also shortens the rear stride.
E. Tail Set - Low.
F. Rear Angulation -Straight, poorly angled, (120 degrees). He has swinging, stiff and inflexible action instead of a driving action.
G. Angle of the shoulder blade & upper arm is too large (120+ degrees).
H. Upper arm (humorous) - Slightly shorter in length, and straight - not set well under the dog.
I. Fore-chest - Breast bone is recessed. Does not protrude beyond the left & right points of the shoulder. No depth of chest or rib spring. Should not be short ribbed and long in loin.
Movement - This dog will have smaller, mincing
steps. From the side his front legs will not extend to the end of its muzzle. The rear will have a swinging, motion displaying a poor top-line. The rear foot,
after it strikes the ground, may continue up and
back into the air (wasted action). This dog will
require more steps in order to go the same distance
as the first dog.
Poor Movement
Outstanding Movement
Judge Sid Marx commented in a recent article, “We have so many excellent handlers these days who are able to set up a dog in such a manner as to make a beautiful picture and “hide” many faults. That is why the most important thing a judge can do in the ring is pay close attention to the dog in motion. When the dog is in motion, there is very little a handler can do to hide serious faults — and that is why I am bothered by those few I have heard who say that the “down and back is not important.’” All movement is important and shows structure — especially side movement. For those who believe that “type” and “soundness” are two very different things, all I can say is we absolutely do not agree. Soundness is part of type, and the two should never be separated. Most standards describe how the breed should move, and true “dog people” understand how a breed’s structure determines why the dog moves this way. When a dog has a strong topline, good length of rib (and proper rib spring), and a correct tail set, the dog is more likely to be in balance — and for me, there is nothing more important than a dog that is in balance both standing and in motion. These positive traits — combined with proper front and rear angulation — make for a dog that is in harmony and is very difficult to beat in the ring. More importantly, this is the dog (or bitch) that should be used in a breeding program. A dog that is in balance — in harmony — is an absolute delight to behold.”
Below are common faults seen in some Cockers.
Puppies that “Toe-out” in front or are “Cow-hocked” in the rear most likely will not improve as adults.
(The drawings below have been taken from an excellent but unfortunately, out of print publication.)
Incorrect
Cow-Hocked
Incorrect (Coated)
Cow-Hocked
Correct Rear
Moving Away
Correct Natural
Stance
Incorrect
Toeing-Out
Note to breeders: Evaluate your puppies and adult dogs not only on the table, but also as they gait around the yard running and playing. Pull up a chair, sit and observe. You can not accurately evaluate your dog’s topline or side movement by looking down on them while moving beside them on a lead.
Dog on Left
Good Depth, Length, and Rib Spring.
Short Loin
————
Length, depth, and spring of rib allow room for needed heart and lung capacity. They are vital in Sporting breeds that are required to work for long periods of time. A Cocker who is “short backed” is one with a long rib with a short loin.
Dog on Right
Poor Rib Spring
(slab-sided)
Long in Loin
—————
A short rib cage results in inadequate heart and lung capacity. A long loin weaken the dog’s topline — all of which are absolute no-nos in a Sporting breed
making it more difficult for the dog to perform its function smoothly.
Low Tail Set
A low tail set is usually an indication of a tipped hip and the whole rear assembly is shifted too far underneath. It is usually coupled with poor angulation of the stifle and hock. Combined, these undesirable traits produce rear movement that is more of a swinging action than a driving forward action. From a purely aesthetic point of view, it seriously detracts from a proper silhouette and breed type.
It’s time to talk Temperament!
“The Cocker Spaniel temperament is the
most endearing part of the breed!”
The Cocker Spaniel temperament is to be “equable with no suggestion of timidity.” Equable means not easily disturbed or angered, calm and even-tempered. Cockers should be merry with confident, wagging tails and not shrink back, hide, or bark in fear when presented with new situations. They should be curious, confident, and affectionate. Never aggressive. To sum it up, a Cocker Spaniel should be “A merry dog who knows no stranger.”
During the “hay day” of Cocker Spaniels from the 1970’s through the mid-1990’s, Cockers were at the top of AKC’s all-breed registrations. This caused puppy mills and backyard breeders to cash in on the breed’s popularity and breed thousands of unsound, unhealthy cockers with horrendous temperaments. Veterinarians and groomers came to hate the breed and considered them a breed “most likely to bite.” Sadly the breed gained a terrible reputation that has lasted even to this day. Sadder yet, some show breeders continue to breed their stock with less than desirable temperaments. Temperaments are inherited. Early puppy socialization is crucial in shaping the personality of the animals you breed.
The simple fact is adult Cocker Spaniels who do not overcome timid behaviors and react fearfully to new circumstances with their tails clamped down should not be included in a breeding program.
Puppy Socialization Starts with the Breeder:
Early Neurological Stimulation
Socializing puppies has traditionally been considered the responsibility of the new owner. But more research shows that encouraging a stable temperament can start even earlier. The first three weeks of a puppy’s life are a crucial time…
“Show Quality” vs “Finishable”
At a recent dog show, several littermates of both sexes, handled by assorted novice owners, were entered in the 9-12 Month Puppy class. While none of the puppies exhibited disqualifying faults, they were generic in type and not what I would consider “show quality.” The judge that day agreed. The puppies were not up to the competition, and the owners were disappointed that a younger, better-made puppy from the 6-9 Month class beat them for Reserve. At the completion of breed judging, one of the novice owners, who had seen me at earlier shows, approached me and asked, “What happened?”
Temperament in Dogs -
Nature vs Nurture
Understanding canine temperaments and personalities have come a long way in the last several decades. A dog's temperament can influence how they behave, especially as puppies. How a puppy is raised can undoubtedly influence their personality and behaviors.
Further Reading for Cocker Breeders: